After a weekend of getting pummeled by waves, I am a hurtin’ unit today. I have aches in my most of me.
This was my third or fourth time surfing and it was a load of fun as usual.
- I got water injected into my ears and nose at high speed several times.
- During evening revelry sometimes saltwater would spontaneously drain from my sinuses down the front of my shirt leading to awkward conversational pauses.
- No surfboard to the head this time. Also, no fin-lines left on my body.
- I attributed my mid-afternoon acid reflux entirely to a belly full of brine despite the ocean being ~96% fresh water and the prior night’s belly full of beer being only ~95% fresh water.
- Once, for about a second, I rode the glory part of the wave where it is steep downhill and not yet broken. Then I hit the water face first as usual.