living large

I have been aware since I arrived that the forests here are unlike any I have been in before. Many of the trees here are several hundred years old and have a radius exceeding the length of our Ministry of Forest’s largest increment borer, making a precise age determination unavailable.

Only recently did I discover that several of the largest Sitka spruce in BC are located on Haida Gwaii. The provincial big tree registry lists circumference, height, and canopy spread for up to ten of the largest trees of each native species along with an aggregate score using the AFA points system. The Sitka with the largest aggregate score was the target of one of my most recent adventures.

The big tree is in a stand of old growth near where one of the primary logging roads originally ran along the Yakoun River. When it was first built, the Queen Charlotte Main line journeyed north along the east side of the Yakoun river. A few hundred metres from where the big tree is, a bridge was built to cross the Yakoun and continue north on the way to Juskatla and Port Clements. In the 1970’s that bridge washed out and a set of roads on the west side of the river were connect to the north instead of rebuilding the bridge. The new Queen Charlotte Main crosses the Yakoun river further south, near Yakoun Lake, where the river is still relatively small.

That original Queen Charlotte Main is no longer in much use and so now the tree is located down 4.5 km of under-maintained logging road. I wasn’t too concerned about the walk but was keen to find an alternative. A conversation with a fellow named Mike at the Ministry of Forests helped me pinpoint exactly where the tree was – on the south side of the river to the east of the old bridge site – but I was warned that fording the river was not likely to be possible. Mike spoke of an idea to fall a medium-large tree across the river near the old bridge site to make a foot crossing. Alas, this was still a dream so I was braced for a 9 km return trip on foot.

In order to get my bearings first, I decided to visit the north side of the old bridge site. Less than a kilometre away I saw something that led me to feel excitement and joy.

The Bridge on the River Yakoun

A rather substantial tree has recently fallen across the Yakoun, easily big enough to comfortably walk upon!

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This is the north end of the bridge with a 183 cm human figure shown for size comparison.

I crossed the newly formed bridge. Bear shit was abound on both sides of the bridge. Dauntless, I ventured forth, but with a substantial change in my noise output.

After a few moments of searching, I found the tree I was looking for!

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The largest Sitka Spruce in BC. 183 cm human figure shown for size comparison

 

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space cadet

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This incredible vessel was discovered in the living room of Severn Cullis-Suzuki. Probably used for Ethnobotany studies on far off worlds.

Sooper gnarly.

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Name that species

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Photo taken at the Port Clements Museum. The bird may be viewed for a mere $3.

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Pizza night

For Theo.
From Tess.

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The dough kneaded help rising

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got crabs?

Our booty harvest was ample: 14.

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They were upset and began tearing each other’s pinchers off. This made them net-easier to handle.IMG_20130327_194807_sm

Shannon is a masterful fisherwoman. Wait, crabs are fish, right? They have gills. She can hunt the shit out of gill owners. I’m glad I don’t have gills. Well, sometimes. Like when gill-owner hunting is going on. Or when gill-owner boiling is going on.

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… down, down, down and the steam went higher.

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Table nearly set… one thing is missing!

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Activate the garlic butter and then say “grace” in a combination of script and crab-charades.

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Then we feast!

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A beautiful ocean view

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Yesterday we dropped a crab trap. Today we will retrieve it.

Thursday is a joint birthday party for Becca and me.  If Shannon catches any crabs maybe we will eat those too, but I expect they won’t last that until Thursday…

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That’s two

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Gwaii Haanas

This is where I am right now.

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some highlights

 

 

 

Mike and Sarah left yesterday. Here are some of my favourite moments from their visit. (They took most or maybe all of these photos.)

 

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Speaking with Tyler about the Gwaii Haanas Legacy Pole he is helping carve

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Examining a Black Death Mushroom of Doom

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Doubling on a rope swing that is HEAVILY frayed

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Wearing a deer skull

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Adventure kayaking with Sarah

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Sarah chasing the birds

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Mike showing his collection of beautifully coloured rocks

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storm exploitation

The latest adventures of Team Sphagnum Ranger landed us at Tow Hill during a rain and hail storm. The swell pushed the rising tide up through a hole in the rock causing a gnarly “blow hole” effect.

 

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Then we ascended Tow Hill to watch the sunset through the storm.

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